Turkish Delight

Ok so Turkey. I’m going to make a very bold statement; only hopefully to retract later in life, Turkey, hands down, has the best cuisine I’ve ever. ONLY comparable country would be Mexico, but I haven’t been in a couple of years so I’m going to re-iterate my statement. Turkey has the best cuisine I’ve ever had. And here’s why. Since Istanbul is such a metropolis you get the best. Maybe in some far off village an old woman’s meatballs would be better than “Ciya” but I suspect most recipes, even at the big restaurants, are passed through generations anyway. Turkish food is what my version of soul food is. Hardy, filling, satisfying, but it never popped a button off my pants-wishful thinking though. A good meal in Turkey just left me happy and in need of a good snuggle.

For me, food is the best part of travel. Look at Anthony Bourdain, he’s made a career out of being a gluttonous Fox. I truly believe a culture is defined by their cuisine. Cooking is a form of art, said the Chef’s daughter. So please put me in the museum, line the walls with Doner kebab, kumpir, baklava, lahmacun, pide, a bottle of Raki and leave me for a while.

The thing about these countries here in the Middle East they only use seasonal local ingredients, because anything else is just completely unaffordable; i.e. 5TL for a single lime. In many ways this makes for better meals. I don’t disregard decisions made in restaurants in the states, but I think food production would be better quality and cheaper if we all had this mentality. It’s a no brainer that an apple grown from an orchard in Napa valley is going to be way juicier than one shipped from somewhere China and pumped with hormones to ripen it along the way. So why would we order them off season for an apple walnut salad? I will give credit to the “Nopa’s” and “Chez Panisse” who have firmly jumped on the bandwagon of local and seasonal ingredients. It shows through in the quality, and therefore notable and successful restaurants.

Another thing about these countries is the price of meat versus the price of fruit. On average I eat meat 1 or 2 times a week. It’s un-intentional, but reflects how expensive meat is. On the other hand fruit is dirt cheap. Pomegranates and oranges are in season now so a glass of fresh squeezed pomegranate juice from an outdoor juice stand was about 5 TL (1.75 USD or so) and orange was about 2TL (.75 cents). In the states a glass of squeezed orange juice is about 4 dollars and a burger 99 cents. Here’s a little food for thought, what would Americans look like if they ate less meat, especially red meat, and more fruit? What would happen to all those big pharmaceutical corporations that profit from people’s high blood pressure and heart disease?

But less of that and more of what makes Turkey so delicious. Given the right meal and situation food can be, if not comparable, better than sex. Breakfast was usually simple, Turkish coffee, a roll, and fruit. One day I had a burger and Caesar salad for breakfast, but I was extremely hungover so it doesn’t count. Lunch and dinner generally depended where we were. Doner, was fresh sliced meat-chicken or lamb, into a thick piece of pocket bread or wrap with lettuce onion ect. Lahmacun was delicious-a large piece of thin bread with sausage and cheese baked just long enough to make the edges crispy. You open it up and sprinkle lettuce and onions, then roll like a burrito-yum. Pide-flat pizza bread. Muscles on the streets were historic. Stuffed with or without rice you just order, squeeze a lemon and down the hatch. Sour meatballs served in a Pomegranate sauce. Kebabs galore served everyway but with yogurt based sauce was my favorite. Breads, rows and rows of fresh baked bread. Soups made of every possible vegetable, which was great since it was rain and cold. Kumpir is genius, a simple stand that sold baked potatoes, then everything imaginable under the sun to stuff it. They start with butter then you can pick anything from yogurt sauce to green olives. Like an all you can eat topping buffet, and more toppings the better. They had the same idea for waffles.

Waffle buffet.

 First they make you a fresh waffle, then spread on an assortment of spreads and finish it with fresh fruit. It’s rolled up like a gyro and you attempt to eat like a lady. Americans would be in heaven. Then the holy Mecca of Istanbul food experience-the wet burger. I don’t think this was a traditional Turkish dish, but it didn’t make it any less orgasmic in my mind. A counter holding about 50 sliders under a heat lamp drenched in this sauce that has the consistency of BBQ sauce, but better. I got one for a “snack”, went back for another and a hug from the man behind the counter. I’ll never forget that burger as long as I live.

 Everything spiced perfectly and cooked with, I’m sure, olive oil. If that’s not enough you finish it off with Raki, very traditional and dangerous spirit made with Anis that has the same flavor as licorice. It was served to me with a glass of water and white cheese. Then you get a small glass of the worlds strongest black tea. Desert? Holy Baklava. I’m generally not a fan of Baklava, but some of the Baklava here melts in your mouth like butter. You can get it with an assortment of different nuts and honey. Salep is a highly addicting grainy milk drink served hot and sprinkled with cinnamon sold at outdoor carts in the touristy areas for about 2 TL. Best drank in the rain under my umbrella. I would take another day in Istanbul sitting in a café sheltered from the rain with all these dishes over a night with Clive Owen or Javier Bardem. What can I say, I’m a fat girl at heart.

Store window after store window
just like this

Needless, to say the food was incredible. If that was the only mentionable quality Turkey had, then they would be way ahead of the game, but the food was only the beginning. Istanbul was such a mesmerizingly beautiful city. Generally when I travel I become restless in a few days, but not in Istanbul. I was completely content getting lost in the cobble stone alleys winding through the city lined with juice and kebab stands, clothing stores, and outdoor cafes in search for the Frida Kahlo exhibit. I could have spent an entire day watching the fisherman along the Bosphorus, walking around Aya Sofia in the rain, polishing my bargaining skills in the Grand Bazaar, or laying in the steamy Hamam. Not to mention staying with Kristine and Danny was like staying with family.

Having spent Christmas and New Years, I’m completely endeared to Turkey. I bought the flag as a reminder of the great time. It hangs on my wall next to all my other souvenirs; a beautiful ceramic Turkish tea set, some black and white photographs of Old Istanbul, loads of memories, new friends, and 5 extra pounds on my ass.

winner winner chicken dinner

Yesterday I decided to buy my usual spit roast chicken for dinner an upon observing that my usual seller has changed I instantly knew I was going to get cheated on the price. It happens, but this is how I handled that siuation.
ME-"How much for a chicken?"
EGYPTIAN CHICKEN VENDOR-"50 pounds"
ME-"Do you know Abdul Rahim?" (Hes my landlord and very well known in these parts)
EGYPTIAN CHICKEN VENDOR-"Yea"
ME- (with my finger pointed) "Well I live in his house and if I call him right now and he tells me a chicken is cheaper than 50 pounds Ill never come back here. So how much is a chicken?"
EGYPTIAN CHICKEN VENDOR-"40 pounds"
ME-"Ok Ill take half"

Christmas Cards to Heaven

It’s Christmas again, well Christmas eve, and I’m sitting at the airport in Cairo waiting to board my plane to take me to Istanbul. Today, I’ve been thinking a lot about the people I left in San Francisco. Clearly I’m having an unforgettable time, but it’s the holidays and the airport soundtrack is full of the most damn nostalgic songs. Ok enough with the Sinead O’Connor Cairo International, really.  Briefly I want to wish everyone I love in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Kentucky, Indiana, Texas, Oklahoma, Maryland, Florida, Australia, Egypt, and everywhere else in the world where you may be, a very Merry Christmas. If I were home you would be getting another one of my traditional Christmas cards, with a lovely picture of me and one very pissed off Bruiser in reindeer ears. However, since that isn’t happening this year, this is the best I got. Also I wanted to, more importantly, write a note to the people who are not going to receive my Christmas card this year.

Dear Dad, Adrian, and Gregor,

        HI! How’s it going? It’s been awhile since I made an attempt to speak to you, I’m sorry for that, but I assume you are following my every move. To me this is evident through circumstances of my life in this moment, and every moment of the past year. I wish you were here so I could tell you all about my adventures in 2010, and how through your influence I was brave enough to accept all challenges. Did you know I moved to the Middle East to become a teacher? I know, random…but I think if you saw me in my element you would be proud.

Dad, I remember all the art lessons you gave me as a child, well my students love them. Every morning when I look in the mirror, and I see my dark brown hair and prominent ears I see a product of you. Thank you for giving me “Garcia” and somewhat Hispanic appearance, nothing makes me more proud than to call myself your daughter.  Our last Christmas together you gave me a tradition Native American dream catcher. I curse the 13 year old girl who carelessly lost it, but it’s O.K because now, as I get older and witness the products of my manifestations, I see you’ve made sure that that dream catcher has been over my bed the whole time.

Adrian sometimes I pretend that you are sitting in bed with me and I look at you and tell you about the crazy things I’ve been doing. You always look back at me, smile and say “well of course why do you think I picked you”. You are the reason I started traveling, and are the reason I continue. I choose to sail in the Caribbean and scuba dive in the Red Sea because you can’t. I honor you and our relationship by living through your memory. Thank you for allowing me to do this.

Gregor while having a tequila induced conversation with you we began discussing the places of your past 6 months of travel. You named of Mexico, Brazil, London, and Chicago ….I said “I want your life” and you replied (in very typical Gregor fashion) “Darling, I want you in my life”. Done! You were awesome travel buddy. Completely experienced, yet unpretentious.  “Plane tickets are the easiest things in the world to buy”, you told me once. I think about this statement all the time, and how it continues to shape a lot of spontaneous decisions.

Up until now you three have been the men of my life. Thank you God for making me deserving of this. It’s completely true that the encounters of our past, good and bad, pave the path we are presently walking.

It's that time of year again, where we should indulge in happiness. Christmas has that wonderful way of making us forget about sadness, and remember what is truly important. Tomorrow, I hope everyone hugs those who you love, and maybe even those who you don’t. So like always, I’m sending lots of love from Africa. Have your-self a very Merry Christmas. All my love,

     Tobie.

And in the words of Gregor. “say hello to ya mutha for me”

Arabic 101

Arabic has definitely been an interesting and challenging language to learn. It has a completely different script and sentence structure than Western languages. When I first got here I was teaching myself to write, and I was slowly starting to read signs and menus. You write and read from right to left, except for number they are written/read left to write. Really, I’ve become quite dexterous. Also, they only use the vowels e, u (pronounced eeeeeew), and i. So I’m not Mrs. tObie, I’m Mrs. tUbie (teeeeeeeewbie). Also they don’t have P in their alphabet, so anything with P is replaced with a B. Would you like a Bebsi to drink? Where is your Baba (dad)? I think the native speakers have an extra voice instrument in their throats, because there are such harsh pronunciations on some letters, which is nearly impossible for me to say without looking like I’m dry heaving. Also there are hundreds of different dialects in Arabic, but the Egyptian dialect is the most widely spoken because of the cinema (Cairo is the Hollywood of the Middle East). There are even smaller dialect differences between towns in Egypt, even differences between the West Bank and East Bank. So I learn a new word, and then five minutes later being corrected.

I’m writing these words the way they sound to an English speaker, NOT THE WAY THE ARE CORRECTLY SPELLED. So any Egyptian friends who are reading this, I’m so sorry for butchering your language.

Salaam                                                                    Hello

Salaam Alaykuhm                                                 Hello, peace be with you

Ma’Salaama                                                         Goodbye

Ahlwa                                                        yes (also naa’m, but not in the same context)

 La’a                                                                           No

Shukran                                                                  Thank you

Afwan                                                                        You’re welcome

Lo Simaht/lo simahti                                                Excuse me (m/f)

Min Fadlak/ min fadlik                                             please (m/f)

Saba al Khayr                                                       Good morning (literal translation            

                                                                              the morning is good)

  „         „   ful                                                                (the response)-flower

                  Asal                                                           honey

                  Noor                                                          new

                  Helwa                                                       sweet/nicel about

                  Lebon                                                     milk

Dispa al Khayr                                                        goodnight

So in the morning when I pass people on the streets they will say Saba al Khayr, and my response is Saba al ful. I don’t believe there is a word for good afternoon, so you say saba al khayr until about 5 in the evening, till you switch over to Mesa al khayr.

Kay Falhad                                                        how was your day?

Kulu tamom                                                      everything fine?

Kulu kwais                                                            Are you good?

Humdulila                                                            Fine (response)

Mia mia                                                                     perfect                   

Nos nos                                                              50 50. or ok ok

Tabana                                                                   tired

This is generally how people greet each other informally. I say this to the kids a lot. “Enti kwais habibi” translates to “Are you doing O.K my darling”

Ana                                                                          I

Enti                                                                      you

Fi                                                                         Here

This is how you ask for something. When I’m looking for one of my students I say “fi Mohamed” “Is Mohamed here?”or if I walk into a restaurant and I want a soda I say “Fi Bebsi” “Do you have Pepsi?”

Fin                                                       Where?

Bekam                                                 How much?

Malish                                                   Sorry

Mafish                                                   Unfortunately

Mafish mashkila                                 unfortunately not here

Faka                                                   Change (as in money)

You say “fi faka” When you buy something and the person doesn’t give you your change. “Where’s my change”

Hisap                                                         Check in a restaurant

Halas                                                   Stop! Finish! Quit! Enough!

Again, another word I use almost everyday with the kids

Vas                                                enough (used in terms if someone is pouring a drink)

Yalla                                                  Start! Lets go! Hurry up!

Imshi                                                       Get away

Ya zefta                                                  You piece of shit

These are very disrespectful words, so I only use then when necessary. It’s usually followed by some big verbal altercation, or total shock that a foreigner knows this lingo. Thanks Roujy.

Mumkin                                                        If Possible

Mish munkin                                           Not posible

Isma                                                                Listen

Busi                                                               look

Habibi/habibti                           (term of endearment) My darling, my sweet, my love

I love this word. It was one of the first words I learned in Arabic, because I spent a lot of time with a German couple who had been living here for about 6 months, and she called her husband Habibi. I say this to my students a lot and the animals. We finally named our cat Habibi Zefta (my darling piece of shit) you can imagine the reaction from neighbors when we call her in at night.

Helwa                                                        good or nice

Magnun                                                    crazy

Another term I use with the kids. “Enti magnum” “you’re crazy!”

Owi                                                                   a lot

Hena                        here (When looking for little Mohamed, I usually get an answer                

                                  from the kids “Mohamed hena” Mohamed’s here

Ana ishi hena                                           I live here   

Ami                                                                   Uncle

Khti (sounds like Hoti)                                 Sister

 Ahuya                                                           brother

Culture point : In the Quran everyone is considered your brother or sister and should be treated as so. So these are also terms of respect. If I really like someone, say a man that runs the fruit shop, I would call him “ya ami”. If someone on the street was very kind, then I would say “Shokran ya ami” “Thank you my Uncle”  

Also this is interesting because in Tagalog sister is atti and brother is kuyo, I read somewhere that there are a lot of Arabic influences in many other languages.                                                 

Shwia                                                               Slow down

Tini                                                                  more! or again!

Chamel                                                            turn left

Yamen                                                         turn right

A la tool                                                      keep going strait

Mudarisa                                                      Teacher

Madessa areman                                       German school

Amrika                                                              American

“Ana Englizi mudarisa medessa Areman” “Im an English teacher in the German School”  (not grammatically perfect, but they get the point)

Wahashtini                                                   I miss you!

I left my heart in Dahab

 I found it. It exists. It has a name, and I know where to point it out on a map. It’s called Dahab, and by all measures in my mind and heart this place is Holy. The people are unlike any I’ve ever met, and the scenery is too beautiful to be examined through a calendar or travel magazine. It can only truly judge and absorbed by the naked eye.  It’s a little seaside town nestled at the base of the Sinai mountain range along the coast of the Sinai Peninsula. A perfect culture blend of Bohemian Gypsy travelers, former Egyptian city dwellers who have runaway to the sea, backpackers from all over the world, the native Bedouin people, and the best looking men in Egypt. I heard nothing but amazing things about this place, so I decided it was time for a look. After three months of an intensive work load nothing seemed like a better idea.  Diving is religion here, and I’ve wanted my certification for awhile, so I signed up with a small diving company to get my Open Water Certificate. My class consisted of my dive buddy- Sarah, 2 other students –The Norwegians, and our instructor Ahmed.

Having karkahdeh Beduoin style (sitting on the floor
with mats and pillows) staring at the sea. From here 
you can see all the way to Saudi Arabia.

I left Luxor Thursday afternoon via bus, arrived Friday and class began promptly Saturday morning. The first day was nothing but boring in class videos (snooze), but I was able to use this time productively by catching up on much needed sleep that I lost during my 21 hour bus ride. The following days were generally the same, I would meet my new friends at the dive center, load all our gear into the back of a truck, climb into a jeep, make our way to the water, spend the better part of the day in the water exploring the reefs and learning techniques, end by sunset, load all or gear back into the truck, head back to the dive center, clean everything, leave, make my way to food-any food and as fast as possible-, have a beer with the Norwegians,  and fall asleep around 9 with my dive manual on my chest, wake up and repeat.

 Diving in the Red Sea is on my top 3 most incredible accomplishments to date, and I really only scratched the surface. The deepest descent we made was 18 meters (approximately 60 feet). I saw more animals snorkeling in Belize, but here it was through completely different eyes. Being completely underwater is the most euphoric feeling EVER. I would go all the way to the bottom and look up to massive walls and cliffs of coral filled with tiny “fish cities” busy with their daily routines.  The sun beams were shining through the surface and it left strokes of rainbows and light through the water. Fish would swim right next to you and you could perfectly see their colorful patterns and unique shapes.  I was so overwhelmed in these moments that I would have these fits of uncontrollable laughter and completely fill my mask with salt water.

After a full day of diving, im clearly exhausted. Me and the Norwegians.

 After about 4 days of this I past my final exam and I am officially PADI certified and can dive anywhere in the world.  Any interests in joining me in these quests can inquire below. I ran out of time and money, so I didn’t do anymore dives, but the plan as of now is to return in April for my Advanced Open Water Course, and check out the local canyons, shipwrecks, and remote reefs where it is said to be common for nursing dolphin sightings. I had the original intention to spend my last few days trekking through the desert and climbing Mt Sinai. This is where it is believed Moses received the 10 commandments.  However, I received the 11^th commandment on my 4^th day in Dahab-though shall not do too much exercise on vacation-so instead I opted to lay seaside/poolside/sexy Egyptian manside for the last 3 days.  Such a better idea!

"Studying" with Sarah

 I’ve found that in my life, I can only function 1 or 2 ways. I’m either completely overloading myself with responsibilities, tasks, and work-or-unbelievably lazy, procrastinator to the fullest and overindulging at all possible times. I can’t honestly reflect to a period in my life when I managed some sort of balance. It’s always black or white. Maybe  because I’m American and I constantly feel a need to work, build, make money, complete things, OR maybe it’s my eager soul that pushes me do do do . But for the first time ever, I was able to find this balance.  The voice inside my head that said “use your time wisely” “go trekking” “go horseback riding” “you can sunbath anywhere” “get off your ass”  was dismissed and I felt what relaxation was. It was awesome; I sat for hours and just stared at the sea completely content. My heart was pumping honey for 7 days straight. At night I browsed the shops, chatted with the locals impressing them with my Arabic, met other young travelers, hung with the Bedouin kids, and  ate dinner or drank tea alone -these were some of the most blissful moments of the whole week.

 The Egyptians in Dahab are some of the friendliest people I’ve met. I was in a shop searching for a particular statue for a friend, and the only one I could find was chipped. I asked the man in the shop if he had another one undamaged. He rummaged through the shelves, but unfortunately they were out. The adjacent shop was completely identical, so I my next idea was to check there.

 Culture point: When shopping in the Middle East if you look, glance, peek, gaze, ponder or an item happens to accidently come slightly into your line of vision then you are considered by the shop keeper to be immediately interested. YOU NEVER stop and give it a longer stare, because then you own it, and the unwritten law is you have to buy it…at least that’s what the shop keeper thinks.  And when you tell him your just having a look…well… there’s no such thing.

So for me to come in this shop and finger around, ask for things and go out empty handed was unheard of.

  So I sheepishly asked him, “Is that your shop next door, because maybe there is one over there, and I want to buy it from you because you’re so nice and helpful and I’ve really enjoyed my time in this store you have so many nice things?” (Yea good Tobie, use lots of flattery)

 And the reply…

“No it’s not my shop, it’s my neighbors shop but maybe they have one.” “Go and have a look.”

Followed by about 30 seconds of me staring wide eyed and confused.

“What?” I thought.  You’re not going to tell me to wait a moment, run next door, buy it for Egyptian price, and then charge me triple, and lay the biggest guilt trip when I refuse to pay 5000 pounds for a 5 inch wooden statue.

“UUuuhhhhh Ok?” I said in total disbelief that this conversation just took place, and slowly turned and left the shop.

Shopping with my snorkel and fins.

No statues were purchased, but I did manage a small splurge on some bright red MC Hammer pants, colorful Bedouin jewelry.  By day 5, my inner hippie was in full force. I hadn’t washed my hair in days, my clothes were all dirty and stained from the salt water, and all I could think about was how peaceful this place made me feel-loving it all. Unfortunately the time came to go home, and I seriously considered calling my boss in Luxor to tell him I won’t be returning, adding to the list of runaway city dwellers.  If anyone saw the tears I shed when I left San Francisco they can imagine my state when leaving Dahab. I love my city by the bay, but I think it’s taken a backseat to my village by the sea.



Sunset over the Sinai Mountains.



Typical Luxor





 I've been on holiday for the past week and half, and my writing has taken a back seat to sun bathing, diving, and being an all around beach bum. I will tell you all about my time in the magical land of Dahab, later this week. Meanwhile to occupy you eager eye, here are a few pictures I've snapped in and around Luxor. 

Rose, Roujy, and I making breakfast on a Saturday morning.

Typical Egyptian breakfast; ful (smooshy beans), bread, fruit salad, veggies, boiled eggs, and coffee.



The feluccas (sailboats) making trips up and down the Nile. My house is behind these buildings.



Sheep herding in the fields behind my school. Unfortunately none of these sheep are still on the planet. Last week was the Islamic holiday Eid Sied, and these all got slaughtered for the holy feast. Baaaaa



Fruit and bread stands. Generally a bag of bread is about 1 Egyptian Pound (about 20 cents) and a bunch of bananas, 3 guavas, 2 pomegranates, and a couple apples are about 20 Egyptian Pounds ($4).

Walking through the Souk on my way home from work.

This is one of my neighbors naughty camels. He escaped, and I found him eating all the flowers in another neighbors yard.

I took this walking through the village near my school. This is a puplic water fountain, because of the heat they are placed everywhere. They have metal cups chained to them, so anyone can come get a drink of water on hot days. Here are some of the village kids climbing up to get some water. I love them. Every morning they run up to me waving and screaming "Hello!" "Hello!". I think they are so proud to know this English word, because they scream it until Im out of sight. Sometimes the little boys run off and  pick me back flowers. They know how to play at my heart strings!

This isnt typical, but the Arabic teacher made ful one day at school so we all sat on the ground and ate together.

Here is the view of the Luxor Temple and the Mosk. Im sitting in a cafe having tea and chocolate mousse after work.



Leaving work.