I left my heart in Dahab

 I found it. It exists. It has a name, and I know where to point it out on a map. It’s called Dahab, and by all measures in my mind and heart this place is Holy. The people are unlike any I’ve ever met, and the scenery is too beautiful to be examined through a calendar or travel magazine. It can only truly judge and absorbed by the naked eye.  It’s a little seaside town nestled at the base of the Sinai mountain range along the coast of the Sinai Peninsula. A perfect culture blend of Bohemian Gypsy travelers, former Egyptian city dwellers who have runaway to the sea, backpackers from all over the world, the native Bedouin people, and the best looking men in Egypt. I heard nothing but amazing things about this place, so I decided it was time for a look. After three months of an intensive work load nothing seemed like a better idea.  Diving is religion here, and I’ve wanted my certification for awhile, so I signed up with a small diving company to get my Open Water Certificate. My class consisted of my dive buddy- Sarah, 2 other students –The Norwegians, and our instructor Ahmed.

Having karkahdeh Beduoin style (sitting on the floor
with mats and pillows) staring at the sea. From here 
you can see all the way to Saudi Arabia.

I left Luxor Thursday afternoon via bus, arrived Friday and class began promptly Saturday morning. The first day was nothing but boring in class videos (snooze), but I was able to use this time productively by catching up on much needed sleep that I lost during my 21 hour bus ride. The following days were generally the same, I would meet my new friends at the dive center, load all our gear into the back of a truck, climb into a jeep, make our way to the water, spend the better part of the day in the water exploring the reefs and learning techniques, end by sunset, load all or gear back into the truck, head back to the dive center, clean everything, leave, make my way to food-any food and as fast as possible-, have a beer with the Norwegians,  and fall asleep around 9 with my dive manual on my chest, wake up and repeat.

 Diving in the Red Sea is on my top 3 most incredible accomplishments to date, and I really only scratched the surface. The deepest descent we made was 18 meters (approximately 60 feet). I saw more animals snorkeling in Belize, but here it was through completely different eyes. Being completely underwater is the most euphoric feeling EVER. I would go all the way to the bottom and look up to massive walls and cliffs of coral filled with tiny “fish cities” busy with their daily routines.  The sun beams were shining through the surface and it left strokes of rainbows and light through the water. Fish would swim right next to you and you could perfectly see their colorful patterns and unique shapes.  I was so overwhelmed in these moments that I would have these fits of uncontrollable laughter and completely fill my mask with salt water.

After a full day of diving, im clearly exhausted. Me and the Norwegians.

 After about 4 days of this I past my final exam and I am officially PADI certified and can dive anywhere in the world.  Any interests in joining me in these quests can inquire below. I ran out of time and money, so I didn’t do anymore dives, but the plan as of now is to return in April for my Advanced Open Water Course, and check out the local canyons, shipwrecks, and remote reefs where it is said to be common for nursing dolphin sightings. I had the original intention to spend my last few days trekking through the desert and climbing Mt Sinai. This is where it is believed Moses received the 10 commandments.  However, I received the 11^th commandment on my 4^th day in Dahab-though shall not do too much exercise on vacation-so instead I opted to lay seaside/poolside/sexy Egyptian manside for the last 3 days.  Such a better idea!

"Studying" with Sarah

 I’ve found that in my life, I can only function 1 or 2 ways. I’m either completely overloading myself with responsibilities, tasks, and work-or-unbelievably lazy, procrastinator to the fullest and overindulging at all possible times. I can’t honestly reflect to a period in my life when I managed some sort of balance. It’s always black or white. Maybe  because I’m American and I constantly feel a need to work, build, make money, complete things, OR maybe it’s my eager soul that pushes me do do do . But for the first time ever, I was able to find this balance.  The voice inside my head that said “use your time wisely” “go trekking” “go horseback riding” “you can sunbath anywhere” “get off your ass”  was dismissed and I felt what relaxation was. It was awesome; I sat for hours and just stared at the sea completely content. My heart was pumping honey for 7 days straight. At night I browsed the shops, chatted with the locals impressing them with my Arabic, met other young travelers, hung with the Bedouin kids, and  ate dinner or drank tea alone -these were some of the most blissful moments of the whole week.

 The Egyptians in Dahab are some of the friendliest people I’ve met. I was in a shop searching for a particular statue for a friend, and the only one I could find was chipped. I asked the man in the shop if he had another one undamaged. He rummaged through the shelves, but unfortunately they were out. The adjacent shop was completely identical, so I my next idea was to check there.

 Culture point: When shopping in the Middle East if you look, glance, peek, gaze, ponder or an item happens to accidently come slightly into your line of vision then you are considered by the shop keeper to be immediately interested. YOU NEVER stop and give it a longer stare, because then you own it, and the unwritten law is you have to buy it…at least that’s what the shop keeper thinks.  And when you tell him your just having a look…well… there’s no such thing.

So for me to come in this shop and finger around, ask for things and go out empty handed was unheard of.

  So I sheepishly asked him, “Is that your shop next door, because maybe there is one over there, and I want to buy it from you because you’re so nice and helpful and I’ve really enjoyed my time in this store you have so many nice things?” (Yea good Tobie, use lots of flattery)

 And the reply…

“No it’s not my shop, it’s my neighbors shop but maybe they have one.” “Go and have a look.”

Followed by about 30 seconds of me staring wide eyed and confused.

“What?” I thought.  You’re not going to tell me to wait a moment, run next door, buy it for Egyptian price, and then charge me triple, and lay the biggest guilt trip when I refuse to pay 5000 pounds for a 5 inch wooden statue.

“UUuuhhhhh Ok?” I said in total disbelief that this conversation just took place, and slowly turned and left the shop.

Shopping with my snorkel and fins.

No statues were purchased, but I did manage a small splurge on some bright red MC Hammer pants, colorful Bedouin jewelry.  By day 5, my inner hippie was in full force. I hadn’t washed my hair in days, my clothes were all dirty and stained from the salt water, and all I could think about was how peaceful this place made me feel-loving it all. Unfortunately the time came to go home, and I seriously considered calling my boss in Luxor to tell him I won’t be returning, adding to the list of runaway city dwellers.  If anyone saw the tears I shed when I left San Francisco they can imagine my state when leaving Dahab. I love my city by the bay, but I think it’s taken a backseat to my village by the sea.



Sunset over the Sinai Mountains.